Hongwanji Trip - The Grounds

Nishi Hongwanji complex is large. Although it is probably less than half of the original size. Just outside the current walls is a temple neighborhood of shopkeepers and other service providers to the visitors to the Hongwanji. At one time Higashi Hongwanji and Nishi Hongwanji bordered each other.

When you enter at the gate, remember to bow towards the Amida-do.

Eventually, the shops and temples around the Hongwanji were given the land. Even the lamposts in the area have a distinctive look.

Hongwanji Trip - Nishiyama Betsuin

Nishiyama Betsuin is the training facility for priests of Nishi Hongwanji, located to the west of the Hongwanji.

The Hondo is a National Treasure - it preceded the current structures at Nishi Hongwanji, so this temple is much older. In fact, parts of the temple even precedes the structure, as it was customary to reuse parts of the previous structure in the new building. The Hongwanji, during the civil wars in Japan, had to move from different sites in the Kansai area until Toyotomi Hideyoshi gave part of his land to create what is now Nishi Hongwanji.

As a training facility, the hondo was considered too precious for use, so the Hongwanji built a modern facility next door to the hondo.

Today it is used year-round as a training facility. American ministers also obtain their certification by attending sessions here.

Rennyo Shonin is also buried in a mound behind the Betsuin.

Hongwanji Trip - Otani Hombyo

Nishi Hongwanji's Otani Hombyo is in the Higashiyama District in eastern Kyoto. Not far from Kiyomizu Temple. This, of course, is the Otani Mausoleum where Shinran Shonin is venerated. It is location of the Columbarium. Shinran's daughter Kakushin-in created the mausoleum, which later became of the Hongwanji. It also has been moved around in its history. Now, there are two, as Higashi Hongwanji has its own mausoleum not too far from here.

There is a memorial to Kakushin-in, in appreciation of her duty to her father.

Although the columbarium is open to anyone, the BCA has its own niche to keep in perpetual memorial the names of the deceased in the United States. Each District also has its own, and even individual temples own their own niches. Gardena Buddhist Church does have its own.

Hongwanji Trip - Ryukoku University

Ryukoku University is a Jodo Shinshu university and is affiliated with Nishi Hongwanji. It is considered to be Japan's oldest university, found in 1639. In comparison, Harvard University in Boston was founded in 1636. Originally, Ryukoku is the school to train priests for the Hongwanji. It became a secular school in 1876.

The president of Ryukoku University does not have to be affiliated a priest, but generally is a member of the Hongwanji. The chair of the department of religion has to be affiliated with the Hongwanji.

We visited two of the campuses. Omiya which is within the Hongwanji Complex and Fukasaka, which is the main campus.

http://www.ryukoku.ac.jp/english/index.html

The university is small and has seven faculties. Its central theme is Science, Humanities and Religion. It is known as one of the top school for engineering science in Japan.

We met the public information person in the religious hall - a simple and sparse hall with a contemporary naijin, consisting of the myoji as written by Shinran. It has has morning services every morning, but in this secular world very few students attend regularly each morning.

It is a beautiful campus with many brick buildings.

Ghibli Museum in Mitaka, Tokyo

Before I went to Kyoto, I had the opportunity to visit the Ghibli Museum which was located in the Tokyo suburb of Mitaka. This was easily reached from Shinjuku by express trains.

Once you arrive at the Mitaka station, the Ghibli magic starts to unfold. I could see the signs for the Ghibli bus, but I believe the "catbus" was not working that day, so I hiked the 2000 meters to the museum.

It was very easy to figure out how to get there, there are signs from the beginning that told you how many meters away you are from the museum, all done in the same Miyazaki style. In front of each sign, in the concrete-bricked sidewalks, were some with footprints of Ghibli characters. Every 250 meters were these sign posts and footprints.

The walk was very nice as it followed a little creek and the homes and businesses here were rather large (by Japanese standards) homes or two story buildings. The Ghibli Museum is located in a park and has a very woodsy feel.

When you reach the museum by foot, you will be greeted by Totoro at the corner of the museum. Part of the museum is underground so it is not taller than the buildings surrounding it. Everything seems to be part of the environment. In fact the theme of the museum is "let's lose our way together." Therefore, there is no set map to explore the museum, and every visitor has his or her own to explore.

One of the rooms has dioramas and simple mirror maquettes to demonstrate the elementary elements of animation. (No picture taking was allowed inside the museum.) Everyone is given a ticket to see the exclusive short inside the theatre. The movie theatre upon entering is lit and airy. Wait a minute, how could they show a film inside this room, which was decorated with vines and greenery. Before the short started, the windows closed up! The short had no conversation, we just watched a girl walk along a path and sounds are all we heard. The sounds were emphasized by katakana. As in most Miyazaki films, the gifls ends up befriending a spirit, who in turn gives her a gift on her way home.

Another room in the museum recreates the messy studio of Miyazaki with a lot of details. There was another room that was only open for children but had the worlds largest stuffed cat bus where kids could climb in and out of like the girls in the "Totoro."

Of course, there were things to buy in the store and bookstore. Outside there was a concession stand and a small restaurant called the Straw Hat. I think most of the girls in Miyazaki films wears a kind of hat. Even the beer that they sold had on it a label done in the Ghibli style, and of course, I brought one home (empty) as a souvenir.

It was museum that made sense in the world of Ghibli.

"Lets lose our way together."

Hongwanji Overseas Representatives Seminar 2

It was my first time at morning services, but fortunately the BCA ministers had taken their Tokudo training at Hongwanji and was familiar.

It is the custom to bow towards the o-naijin when entering the complex at the gate (also when leaving).

The Hongwanji has two halls - Amida-do, the largest one, and the Gyoei-do. Both are used at the services, however the Gyoei-do is under restoration and not currently used.

You take your shoes off before climbing the stairs to the Amida-do. You could use the plastic bags to take them inside with you, but there aren't that many people, so I just left mine outside. TIP: It is a good idea to wear shoes that you can slip on and off easily, because it is something that you will do all the time in Japan, especially in Kyoto.

Bow, before entering the hall and you will notice several things. It is huge and covered with tatami that run across the hall. There are no chairs, however, folding chairs are provided to use on the tatami - since even most Japanese no longer sit on the floor. Also there are no heaters and very low light. As we learned later in our orientation, this is the reason gold is used inside the halls to reflect any available lighting.

Part one of the service starts with entrance of the priests (which including students, are many) and the sutra Sanbutsuge is chanted in front of the statue of Amida Buddha.

Part two of the service is the chanting of Shoshinge in front of Shinran, and usually done in the Gyoei-do, but since it is under renovation, the naijin is set up to the left of the Amida Buddha. The priests all move to a new position. Usually six wasans are included and the numbers are posted on the pillar. Then the Gobunsho is brought down and one of the letters from Rennyo is read. Then the lecturer will give a Dharma talk. (All in Japanese.) There are service books that you can borrow, but you have to remember to pick one up on the way in, or bring your own.

No you don't have to sit "seiza" (Japanese-style), but I even find sitting cross-legged to be a numbing experience.

After this service, we went to get breakfast at the Royal Host, which served American-style pancakes and had a drinks bar. It took us awhile to figure out the coffee machine, and we found out that you could make your own iced coffee.

Next: Hongwanji Orientation.

Hongwanji Overseas Representatives Seminar 1

On arrival to Kyoto, the representatives from the BCA (five lay representatives and two ministers) spent the night in the dorms at the Kokusai Center (Hongwanji International Center). It is the same dorms that overseas students would stay while they are studying at the Hongwanji.

The Kokusai Center is also the office that coordinates activities with each of the overseas districts - Canada, Hawaii, South America and the BCA. It also serves as the welcome center for anyone from these districts. It is located about two blocks east of the Hongwanji, along the street that also servers as the northern border of the main complex.

It was late for most of us to get dinner, so we had gone to the local Lawsons (a convenience store chain) for some food, drinks and supplies.

The next morning, our session didn't start until 10:00 am, but we woke up in time for the 6:30 am Asaji (Morning Service) at the Hongwanji.

Next: Morning Service

Time to Travel

I'll be leaving this weekend, followed by Rev. Nakano for this Hongwanji Overseas Meeting and Seminar in Kyoto.

I think I have everything in order. Today is the day to make sure everything at work is ok to leave. Tonight to make sure everything I need to get for church is done.

I checked the weather in Kyoto and Tokyo. The high is around 62 degrees. At first I didn't think it was that bad, but this morning the temperature in Los Angeles was around 62 degrees, and I thought this would be too cold. It has rained in Japan last week too.

The hard part is to travel light. So I've been adding and tossing things in/out of my bag all week. Its hard when you have to pack coat and tie among your clothes. I rechecked the flight times and the other tickets I have, rail pass and ticket to the Ghibli Museum.

The Ghibli Museum is everything about the studio that produced "Totoro" and "Kiki's Delivery Service." The admission is only JPY1,000, but tickets can be purchased in advance overseas through JTB (and they tack on a $5 fee) or in Japan through special offices.

Hongwanji - Jokoji Temple

I plan to take a side trip to Joetsu City in Niigata Prefecture on the Sea of Japan, primarily to visit Jokoji Temple. This temple was founded by Shinran Shonin during the period of his exile from Kyoto. Although if you read the link below, he was in Ibaraki Prefecture. This temple moved a few times before its current location.

This Website has more information on this temple.
http://www.city.joetsu.niigata.jp/english/contents.files/Jokoji.html

Joetsu City itself is a new city. It was created from different towns in the area not too long ago. The area has many onsen and ryokan, but not on the regular tourist map. JNTO and JTB could not book me a ryokan, so I will have to contact one when I get there.

Hongwanji - Getting There

The Hongwanji Overseas meetings are in November. I had to decide when and how to get there. I decided I'll do some of my own sightseeing around Japan, so I am making it a 111-day trip.

I would have to miss a USC home football game on Nov. 3 and the Southern District ABA "Fun-Food-Friendship" on Nov. 10, for this opportunity. Oh well. Namo Amida Buddha.

Airfares are not cheap. In fact, traveling to Kansai International (which is the closest to Kyoto) from Los Angeles is about $200 more than flying to Narita (Tokyo). But since I wanted to take a side trip to the Sea of Japan coast and do some personal stuff in Tokyo, I opted to fly to and out of Narita and use a Japan Rail Pass.

The web-based prices were no different than from the traditional travel agents...at least one airline, United Air Lines, was consistent in coming up with the lowest fare, yet they charge a "fuel fee" which brought the total closer to what other airlines were charging. I ended up using JTB online to book the ticket.

I put together a quick and affordable 11-day itinerary that I'll cover in the future.

to be continued...

Gassho...

Hongwanji Overseas Meeting in November

Although I did not actively sought this, I was fortunate enough to be nominated as one of the lay representatives of the BCA to attend the Overseas Meeting at the Hongwanji in Kyoto in November. I said "Ok," and there I go ... I will be joined by six other lay reps and a few ministerial representatives, including our own Rev. Nakano.

So from time to time, I think I will write not only about the meetings, but because I decided to spend a few extra days "exploring" places that I think could be possible places to take a group, especially to attend the 750th Memorial Service of Shinran Shonin in 2011. It may be of interest to some since I don't intend to do "normal" things.

First things first - I had to renew my expired passport. Worried that the normal procedure could take months, I renewed with a rush order - paying almost double. Well I got it within four weeks so I guess I'm lucky.

These days you could take your picture almost anywhere - I opted for the U.S. Post Office mobile truck that came to USC (where I work) and made it easy for me to do it. I wonder if I could have saved money by not paying for the rush and still get it in ontime?

If you are thinking of joining us around 2011 for the group tour, consider the time table to renew your passport - it has taken four, five, six months.


to be continued...